Now, at 22, she is the unwitting, and as yet unseen, star of the seamy drama that is the downfall of Governor Eliot Spitzer.
Considerably more expensive, yes, but much less stressful.
Just up Baker Street from the more famous branch, there's the Royal China Club, launched a couple of years ago as a more luxurious sister restaurant to the already upscale group.
Ten years ago, few collectors looked twice at Chinese mandarins' brightly coloured surcoats with their finely woven dragons and birds.
The lobby is jammed with a cross-section of Londoners; old gents leaning on sticks, elegant Indian ladies, American brunchers glowing from their power-walks, Chinese families of all descriptions.
As the numbers swell, voices rise, tickets are waved, small children trampled underfoot.